{"id":1042,"date":"2023-08-02T23:10:15","date_gmt":"2023-08-02T21:10:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/?p=1042"},"modified":"2023-08-02T23:18:57","modified_gmt":"2023-08-02T21:18:57","slug":"gruzja-2021-czesc-2-dolina-truso","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/?p=1042","title":{"rendered":"GRUZJA 2021. Cz\u0119\u015b\u0107 2. Dolina Truso"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><strong>Stepancminda \u2013 Dolina Truso, 14 sierpnia 2021<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dwa dni wcze\u015bniej, zaraz po zej\u015bciu ze szczytu Kazbeka do Meteo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>W Gruzji picie chachy jest dodatkiem do toastu, poniewa\u017c tutaj toast jest najwa\u017cniejszy. Dopiero po jego wyg\u0142oszeniu, ten, kt\u00f3ry go wzni\u00f3s\u0142, mo\u017ce wypi\u0107 zawarto\u015b\u0107 znajduj\u0105c\u0105 si\u0119 w rogu, do kt\u00f3rego wlewa si\u0119 chach\u0119. Tradycja jest d\u0142uga, z rogu pili Wikingowie, pito z niej r\u00f3wnie\u017c w \u015bredniowieczu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-wp-embed is-provider-zgraja-banit-oacute-w-i-renegat-oacute-w wp-block-embed-zgraja-banit-oacute-w-i-renegat-oacute-w\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<blockquote class=\"wp-embedded-content\" data-secret=\"AJfbswbQAc\"><a href=\"https:\/\/zgraja.com.pl\/wyposazenie\/sredniowieczne-rogi-do-picia\/\">Wczesno\u015bredniowieczne rogi do picia<\/a><\/blockquote><iframe loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-embedded-content\" sandbox=\"allow-scripts\" security=\"restricted\" style=\"position: absolute; clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px);\" title=\"&#8222;Wczesno\u015bredniowieczne rogi do picia&#8221; &#8212; Zgraja Banit&oacute;w i Renegat&oacute;w\" src=\"https:\/\/zgraja.com.pl\/wyposazenie\/sredniowieczne-rogi-do-picia\/embed\/#?secret=AJfbswbQAc\" data-secret=\"AJfbswbQAc\" width=\"600\" height=\"338\" frameborder=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\"><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>R\u00f3g i chach\u0119 (zrobion\u0105 przez ojca Giorgia) mia\u0142 te\u017c Giorgi i ka\u017cdy z nas mia\u0142 wznie\u015b\u0107 toast, za to co jest dla niego najwa\u017cniejsze. Wznosili\u015bmy zatem po kolei toasty. Za przyja\u017a\u0144, za g\u00f3ry i wyprawy. Toast Giorgia by\u0142 za wolno\u015b\u0107. Gruzja ma wroga w postaci Rosji, ten wr\u00f3g jest bole\u015bnie obecny. Na ka\u017cdym kroku czu\u0107 tu niech\u0119\u0107 do Rosji. Chwilami przybiera ona posta\u0107 smutku, chwilami z\u0142o\u015bci. Nawet tu, pod szczytem Kazbeka, \u015bwiadomo\u015b\u0107 istnienia Rosji tkwi w umy\u015ble Gruzin\u00f3w.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Giorgi po toastach zbieg\u0142 na d\u00f3\u0142, \u017ceby spakowa\u0107 si\u0119 na wyjazd do Pakistanu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kilka miesi\u0119cy p\u00f3\u017aniej Rosja napad\u0142a na Ukrain\u0119.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Giorgi rok p\u00f3\u017aniej, razem z kolegami, dosta\u0142 Z\u0142oty Czekan za wej\u015bcie p\u00f3\u0142nocno-zachodni\u0105 \u015bcian\u0105 na niezdobyty dot\u0105d wierzcho\u0142ek Saraghrar w Pakistanie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Wtedy, 12 sierpnia 2021r, nie wiedzieli\u015bmy ani o jednym ani o drugim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Teraz, tym mocniej i wyra\u017aniej, przypomina mi si\u0119 toast Giorgia \u201eza wolno\u015b\u0107\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Blisko Stepancmindy znajduje si\u0119 Osetia Po\u0142udniowa a Droga Wojenna prowadzi prosto do Rosji. W kierunku granicy, niemrawo porusza si\u0119 korek z\u0142o\u017cony z tir\u00f3w, kt\u00f3ry ogl\u0105damy z niedowierzaniem jad\u0105c w przeciwn\u0105 stron\u0119. Na drodze tworzy si\u0119 kilka pas\u00f3w. W zale\u017cno\u015bci od potrzeb, s\u0105 to dwa, czasem trzy pasy, dlatego samochody osobowe nie stoj\u0105 w korku. Tiry natomiast stoj\u0105 po kilka dni zanim kierowcom uda si\u0119 przejecha\u0107 granic\u0119.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dolina Truso jest pono\u0107 naj\u0142adniejsz\u0105 dolin\u0105 w Gruzji. Nasz trekking rozpoczynamy od wioski Zemo-Okrokana, do tego miejsca podwozi nas bus. Kierowca b\u0119dzie na nas czeka\u0107 o okre\u015blonej godzinie, \u017ceby nas zabra\u0107 z powrotem do Stepancmindy. Dolina biegnie r\u00f3wnolegle do granicy z Oseti\u0105. Od granicy dzieli j\u0105 jedno pasmo g\u00f3r. Granica biegnie grani\u0105. Obszar ten w ci\u0105gu 30 lat do\u015bwiadczy\u0142 dw\u00f3ch wojen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_095814-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1044\" srcset=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_095814-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_095814-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_095814-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_095814-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_095814-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_095814-120x90.jpg 120w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption><span class=\"has-inline-color has-vivid-red-color\"><em>Dolina Truso na pocz\u0105tku naszej w\u0119dr\u00f3wki, kanion Kasara<\/em>, <em>po lewej widoczna rzeka Terka. Fot. Jacek<\/em><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8141995-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1048\" srcset=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8141995-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8141995-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8141995-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8141995-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8141995-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8141995-120x90.jpg 120w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption><em><span class=\"has-inline-color has-vivid-red-color\">Dolina si\u0119 rozszerza, coraz wi\u0119ksza przestrze\u0144 przed nami. Fot. Ania<\/span><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142007-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1049\" srcset=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142007-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142007-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142007-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142007-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142007-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142007-120x90.jpg 120w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption><em><span class=\"has-inline-color has-vivid-red-color\">Czasem schodzimy ze szlaku, opuszczona dolina pr\u00f3buje opowiedzie\u0107 nam o \u017cyciu, kt\u00f3re kiedy\u015b tu by\u0142o. Fot. Ania<\/span><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142009-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1050\" srcset=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142009-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142009-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142009-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142009-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142009-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142009-120x90.jpg 120w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption><em><span class=\"has-inline-color has-vivid-red-color\">Niezb\u0119dny nap\u0119d na 4 ko\u0142a. Fot. Ania<\/span><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Niewiele os\u00f3b spotykamy po drodze. Miejsce jest dzikie i odludne, pocz\u0105tek doliny jest w\u0105ski, szlak biegnie tu\u017c obok rzeki Terki, kanionem Kasara. Czerwone ska\u0142y i bazaltowe s\u0142upy, kaskady ma\u0142ych wodospad\u00f3w dodaj\u0105 uroku dolinie. 4 km od Okrokana, w miejscu gdzie dolina jest du\u017co szersza, znajduj\u0105 si\u0119 trawertynowe tarasy, po kt\u00f3rych sp\u0142ywa r\u00f3wnie\u017c woda. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142002-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1045\" srcset=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142002-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142002-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142002-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142002-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142002-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142002-120x90.jpg 120w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption><em><span class=\"has-inline-color has-vivid-red-color\">Trawertynowe tarasy zbudowane ze ska\u0142 osadowych. Fot. Ania<\/span><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>1.5 km od tego miejsca znajduje si\u0119 opuszczona osada \u2013 Ketrisi. Konflikt pomi\u0119dzy Rosj\u0105 a Gruzj\u0105 przyczyni\u0142 si\u0119 do jej upadku. Dwa domy s\u0105 mniej opuszczone, kilka os\u00f3b pomieszkuje tu w sezonach letnich. Poza tym reszta budynk\u00f3w popada w ruin\u0119. Przyroda po kawa\u0142ek po kawa\u0142ku zmienia miejsca, kt\u00f3re cz\u0142owiek zabudowa\u0142 i obsia\u0142. W \u015brodku wioski natykamy si\u0119 na pole kartoflane, kt\u00f3re akurat pi\u0119knie kwitnie. Kawa\u0142ek dalej stoi ko\u0144. Bywaj\u0105 okresy, \u017ce zapuszczaj\u0105 si\u0119 tutaj pasterze, kt\u00f3rzy buduj\u0105 sezonowe obozy i wypasaj\u0105 stada owiec i kr\u00f3w. Zwierz\u0119ta s\u0105 pilnowane przez olbrzymie owczarki kaukaskie (jednego takiego mieli\u015bmy okazj\u0119 pozna\u0107 po zej\u015bciu do Cmindy Sameby). <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142024-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1046\" srcset=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142024-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142024-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142024-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142024-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142024-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142024-120x90.jpg 120w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption><em><span class=\"has-inline-color has-vivid-red-color\">Ketrisi, na wysoko\u015bci 2120 m. n.p.m., liczba ludno\u015bci 0. Mieszka\u0144cy, Osetyjczycy, opuszczali wiosk\u0119 w latach 1992-2008. Fot. Ania<\/span><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"323\" src=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142021-1024x323.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1047\" srcset=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142021-1024x323.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142021-300x95.jpg 300w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142021-768x242.jpg 768w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142021-1536x484.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142021-2048x645.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption><em><span class=\"has-inline-color has-vivid-red-color\">Kwitn\u0105ce pole kartoflane. Fot. Ania<\/span><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142023-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1051\" srcset=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142023-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142023-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142023-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142023-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142023-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142023-120x90.jpg 120w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption><em><span class=\"has-inline-color has-vivid-red-color\"> Podobno latem czasem dzia\u0142an &#8220;cafe&#8221;. Fot. Ania<\/span><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_121144-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1054\" width=\"840\" height=\"630\" srcset=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_121144-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_121144-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_121144-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_121144-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_121144-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_121144-120x90.jpg 120w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 840px) 100vw, 840px\" \/><figcaption><em><span class=\"has-inline-color has-vivid-red-color\">Fot. Ania<\/span><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_121530-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1062\" srcset=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_121530-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_121530-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_121530-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_121530-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_121530-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_121530-120x90.jpg 120w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption><em><span class=\"has-inline-color has-vivid-red-color\">Pogodzone z rozk\u0142adem domy w Ketrisi i pasterski pies, jeden z niewielu tu letnich gospodarzy. Fot. Jacek<\/span><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142014-1-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1055\" srcset=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142014-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142014-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142014-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142014-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142014-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142014-1-120x90.jpg 120w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption><em><span class=\"has-inline-color has-vivid-red-color\">Po drodze widzieli\u015bmy (i poczuli\u015bmy) \u017ar\u00f3d\u0142a mineralne o intensywnie pomara\u0144czowym kolorze i ostrym zapachu siarki.<\/span><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_120009-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1057\" width=\"770\" height=\"1026\" srcset=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_120009-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_120009-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_120009-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_120009-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/IMG_20210814_120009-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 770px) 100vw, 770px\" \/><figcaption><em><span class=\"has-inline-color has-vivid-red-color\">Kolory doliny to czerwony, pomara\u0144czowy i zielony. Fot. Jacek<\/span><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>W opuszczonych wioskach, na wzniesieniach, widoczne s\u0105 charakterystyczne baszty obronne. W Abano znajduje si\u0119 twierdza Zkagori i niewielki monastyr. W jej pobli\u017cu przebiega granica gruzi\u0144sko-osetyjska. Wdrapujemy si\u0119 na wzg\u00f3rze, na kt\u00f3rym stoi twierdza, ruiny ufortyfikowanej \u015bredniowiecznej wioski. U jej st\u00f3p znajduje si\u0119 baza wojskowa i prowizoryczny punkt kontrolny wojska gruzi\u0144skiego. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142028-1024x389.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1058\" width=\"840\" height=\"319\" srcset=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142028-1024x389.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142028-300x114.jpg 300w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142028-768x292.jpg 768w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142028-1536x584.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142028-2048x778.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 840px) 100vw, 840px\" \/><figcaption><em><span class=\"has-inline-color has-vivid-red-color\">Abano i twierdza  Zkagori. Tu ko\u0144czy si\u0119 nasza w\u0119dr\u00f3wka Dolin\u0105 Truso. Fot. Ania <\/span><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142030-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1059\" srcset=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142030-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142030-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142030-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142030-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142030-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption><em><span class=\"has-inline-color has-vivid-red-color\">Baza wojskowa w Abano. Fot. Ania<\/span><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Dalej nie mo\u017cemy ju\u017c i\u015b\u0107, za baz\u0105 nie ma ruchu turystycznego. Gruzja nie utrzymuje \u017cadnych stosunk\u00f3w dyplomatycznych z Oseti\u0105 Po\u0142udniow\u0105. Wracamy. W obie strony to 22km. Ca\u0142a dolina ma d\u0142ugo\u015b\u0107 oko\u0142o 25km, wi\u0119c przeszli\u015bmy mniej ni\u017c po\u0142ow\u0119 doliny. W po\u0142owie drogi powrotnej z\u0142apa\u0142 nas deszcz. Drog\u0119 pokonali\u015bmy w szybkim tempie, nie zatrzymuj\u0105c si\u0119. To by\u0142 jeden z tych dni, kt\u00f3re zapadaj\u0105 si\u0119 w pami\u0119\u0107, zostawiaj\u0105c w niej widoki, zapachy i cisz\u0119 natury. Gruzja w nas zosta\u0142a, razem z ca\u0142ym niedosytem i pragnieniem powrotu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142035-1024x619.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1061\" width=\"840\" height=\"507\" srcset=\"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142035-1024x619.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142035-300x181.jpg 300w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142035-768x464.jpg 768w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142035-1536x928.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/P8142035-2048x1237.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 840px) 100vw, 840px\" \/><figcaption><em><span class=\"has-inline-color has-vivid-red-color\">\u015awi\u0119ty Jerzy, patron Gruzji, dlatego Georgia nazywa si\u0119 Georgi\u0105 a co drugi gruzi\u0144ski ch\u0142opiec zostaje Giorgim. Fot. Ania<\/span><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Stepancminda \u2013 Dolina Truso, 14 sierpnia 2021 Dwa dni wcze\u015bniej, zaraz po zej\u015bciu ze szczytu Kazbeka do Meteo. W Gruzji&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[16,14],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1042","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-tu-i-teraz","category-wspomnienia"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1042","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1042"}],"version-history":[{"count":19,"href":"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1042\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1078,"href":"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1042\/revisions\/1078"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1042"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1042"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/siewspina.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1042"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}